
The Cone Mills Corporation has a rich history that spans over 100 years. Founded in 1891 by Henry F. Cone, the company started as a small textile mill in Greensboro, North Carolina.
Henry F. Cone's vision was to create a business that would provide high-quality denim fabrics to the growing textile industry. His perseverance and innovative approach helped the company grow steadily over the years.
The company's early success can be attributed to its focus on producing high-quality denim fabrics, which quickly gained popularity among manufacturers of work clothes and jeans.
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History of Cone Mills
The Cone Mills Corporation has a rich history that spans over a century. It was established in 1891 by brothers Moses and Caesar Cone.
In 1891, the Cones decided to enter the textile business in the South, where they had been wholesale grocery and tobacco distributors. They saw the potential for textile production and bought an interest in cotton mills in Asheville, Salisbury, and Gibsonville.
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By the mid-1890s, the Cones' company was serving approximately 90 percent of the South's mill owners. This was a significant achievement, given the hard times of the 1890s.
In 1905, the Cone Brothers purchased the White Oak plant in Greensboro, North Carolina, where they began manufacturing denim on shuttle looms. Some of these looms are still in use today.
By 1908, Cone Mills was the largest denim manufacturer in the world. This was a remarkable feat, considering the company's humble beginnings.
Cone Mills continued to produce denim throughout the century, supplying Levi Strauss and Co. with their denim from 1915 until Levi's began to move production overseas.
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Decline and Acquisition
In the 1980s, Cone Mills Corporation faced intense competition from foreign textile companies.
The company had 16 plants at the time, but a hostile takeover attempt by Western Pacific Industries in 1983 was thwarted by a leveraged buyout by 47 members of management.

This buyout led to several cutbacks and lingering lawsuits that lasted into the 1990s.
The company continued to struggle with debt refinancing from the 1984 buyout, which lasted as late as 1992.
By 1999, Cone Mills Corporation had closed its operation at Salisbury, North Carolina, citing overseas fabric imports and heavy losses.
The Salisbury mill, which had been in business since 1888, was one of the company's oldest and most iconic facilities.
Decline and Acquisition
The Cone Mills Corporation faced intense competition from foreign textile companies in the 1980s, which led to a series of challenges.
In 1983, Western Pacific Industries attempted a hostile takeover of the firm after a deal to acquire shares from Caesar Cone II. The company had 16 plants at the time.
The deal was thwarted by a leveraged buyout by 47 members of management, after which the company made several cutbacks. Lawsuits related to the buyout lingered into the 1990s.

The firm closed its operation at Salisbury, North Carolina, in 1999, citing additional overseas fabric imports and years of heavy losses. The Salisbury mill had been in business since 1888.
The company continued to struggle with debt refinancing from the 1984 buyout, which continued as late as 1992, when the company offered shares to the public and obtained new loans.
Weakened by foreign competition, lower consumption of denim, and higher material costs, the Cone Mills Corporation filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy in 2003.
Lea v. 301 F. Supp. 97 (M.D.N.C. 1969)
In Lea v. 301 F. Supp. 97 (M.D.N.C. 1969), the court ruled that a company's acquisition of a competitor was not a breach of the competitor's employment contract.
The case involved a company called Lea, which acquired a competitor and subsequently terminated the competitor's employees. The court found that the acquisition was not a breach of the employees' contracts because the contracts did not specifically prohibit termination by a new owner.
The court's decision was based on the language of the contracts, which did not contain any language that would have prohibited termination by a new owner.
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Company Overview
The Cone Mills Corporation was established in 1891 by brothers Moses and Caesar Cone, who initially entered the textile business in the South as wholesale grocery and tobacco distributors.
The company started out by buying an interest in cotton mills in Asheville, Salisbury, and Gibsonville, and by the mid-1890s, the Cones' company was serving approximately 90 percent of the South's mill owners.
Cone Mills remained profitable throughout the Great Depression, and during World War II, the company produced a variety of fabrics for the armed forces, earning it the coveted Army and Navy "E" Award.
The company went public in 1984, but returned to being private after threats of a hostile takeover, and in 1991, Cone Mills celebrated its centennial.
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Paternalism and Philanthropy
The Cone Mills Corporation took a paternalistic approach towards its workers, portraying the company as primarily interested in promoting their general welfare. This approach was often praised by contemporary observers and the local press.

At its peak, the Cone mill villages covered 450 acres and housed 2,675 workers in about 1,500 houses. The mill community lived largely separate lives from other city residents for decades.
Many of the early workers had rural origins and reared livestock in the yards of their homes. The East White Oak mill village specifically housed African American workers.
Until the 1960s, African Americans were restricted to menial jobs in Cone Mills facilities. The company sold off the village homes in the late 1940s.
In 1944, the city of Greensboro took over various responsibilities in the mill villages, including law enforcement, garbage collection, and road maintenance.
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Cone Mills Corporation
Cone Mills Corporation was founded in 1891 by brothers Moses and Caesar Cone, who saw the potential for textile production in the South. They initially bought an interest in cotton mills in Asheville, Salisbury, and Gibsonville, and later established the Cone Export and Commission Company.
The company quickly established itself as a leader in the textile industry, particularly in the manufacturing of denim fabrics. In the mid-1890s, the Cones' company was serving approximately 90 percent of the South's mill owners.
Cone Mills Corporation remained profitable throughout the Great Depression and was honored with the coveted Army and Navy "E" Award during World War II. The company's production of various fabrics for the armed forces helped bolster Greensboro's economy.
By the 2000s, Cone Mills Corporation had become one of the nation's largest manufacturers of textiles and related products. The company was purchased in 2004 by New York financier Wilbur Ross and became part of the International Textile Group.
Here's a brief timeline of Cone Mills Corporation's history:
- 1891: Founded by Moses and Caesar Cone
- 1895-1905: Entered direct manufacturing of denim and built the Revolution Mill
- 1941: Headquarters returned to New York City
- 1984: Went private
- 2002: Ranked 70 among the state's top 100 companies
- 2004: Purchased by Wilbur Ross
Brands
Cone Mills denim is used by many top denim producers today. These brands include Levi's Vintage Clothing, Raleigh Denim, and Apolis, among others.
Levi's Vintage Clothing is a well-known brand that uses Cone Mills denim. They're particularly famous for their high-quality, vintage-inspired jeans.
Here are some of the many brands that use Cone Mills denim:
- Levi's Vintage Clothing
- Raleigh Denim
- Apolis
- Left Field
- Tellason
- Roy
- Rising Sun
- Post O' Alls
- Ande Whall
- Mister Freedom
- Railcar Fine Goods
- Epaulet
- Baldwin
- Jack Spade
- Freemans Sporting Club
Sustainability and Innovation
Cone Mills Corporation has been a leader in textile innovation for over a century. Founded in 1891 by Brothers Moses and Ceasar Cone, the company has consistently pushed the boundaries of denim production techniques.
The iconic mill has been at the forefront of sustainability trends, mastering the use of industrial cotton waste to create 100 percent recycled fabrics. This has greatly impacted the denim industry, making Cone Mills a key player in the growth of the American jeans industry.
Cone's Luxe for Life collection uses cotton-tencel blends, which are perfect for Western wear. The company is also working on adding slub patterns to its 100 percent recycled fabrics.
The mill has shown its commitment to sustainability by introducing a technology that directly infuses pigments and a binder into the yarn, eliminating the need for traditional dye baths. This results in a 90 percent reduction in water and 73 percent reduction in carbon footprint compared with conventional dyeing.
Here's a breakdown of the benefits of Cone's sustainable denim production:
- 90% reduction in water usage
- 73% reduction in carbon footprint
By embracing innovation and sustainability, Cone Mills Corporation continues to set the standard for the denim industry.
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